Bathroom Maintenance Inspection Checklist

Bathroom Checklist

Procedure. Always have a routine when inspecting or using your checklist. Always start and finish the same place and you will be less likely to miss a concern. Your checklist should have a space at the end of each item checked so that you can mark what the status is of that item. If something needs to be done write it down. NEVER leave your routine and try not to be distracted by a telephone call or talking to someone. By regularly checking everything you will notice immediately when an item is not right like draining or water pressure. I like to use:

OK no deficiencies noted.

or

Condition: write in what is of concern.

TASK:

Further evaluation required calling a plumber recommended.

Improve.

Monitor.

Provide.

Repair.

Replace.

TIME:

Discretionary.

Immediate.

Less than one year.

Less than two years.

Regular maintenance.

Unpredictable.

1. When entering the bathroom look at the door inside and outside for damage and in need of paint or stain. Check that the hardware(door handle) works, locks, is properly secured and is not damaged. Door hinges are secure and not rusted. Personally I like to see the bottom of interior doors spaced about one inch from the floor for better air movement throughout the house.

2. Turn on the light checking that the switch is in good condition, works, not damaged, not loose and a switch cover that is not damaged. People like good lighting in a bathroom so there may be multiple switches and lights to check. NOTE: electrical is covered in more detail in the electrical section.

3. Test the GFCI(ground fault circuit interrupter) plug-in, it has a test button in the middle of it. I also use a cheap $10 electrical tester at all plug-ins to ensure that they are wired correctly and grounded properly for your protection. It is a small handheld device that has prongs that fit into the electric plug-in. When inserted lights come on to tell you if the plug-in is wired correctly. All plug-ins in bathrooms should have GFCIs installed because of the proxcimity of water. GFCIs are there to protect you against electrocution! All bathrooms should have up to date plug-ins for use of hair dryers, hair curling machines, electric toothbrushes... No electric switches or plug-ins should be with in 3 feet of the bathtub or shower for your protection. NOTE: electrical is covered in more detail in the electrical section.

4. Test the heat to make sure it works. Turn up the thermostat and if it is electric baseboard feel the register. It should be warm to the touch in 20 seconds. Check that the heating fins are straight, clean, cover is on and the register is attached securely to the wall. If there is forced air heating put your hand over the floor register to feel for air flow and heat. NOTE: more on heat is covered in the heating section.

5. Next check the faucet and basin for damage or looseness. Put the plug in the basin and turn the faucet on checking water pressure, hot and cold. Look under the basin and check for water leakage and have a look to make sure the trap is in good shape. Now turn off the faucets and unplug the basin while watching under the trap area for water leaks. NOTE: Only check emergency water shut off taps when a plumber may have been called for other reasons. Many shut off taps will have water leakage problems from their lack of use and will need immediate attention.

6. While at the basin check that the countertop splashboard and caulking along the top of it is in good conditon. Check that the mirror is secure and has no damage.

7. Next check the toilet. Put all your weight on the floor around the toilet to check for soft spots from possible water leakage. Next put your knees on either side of the toilet and test that it is secured tightly to the floor. Lift the toilet lid and flush the toilet checking for a good flush and that water is not continously running.

8. Next check all around the bathtub and bathtub enclosure for soft drywall and that the caulking is in good shape. Check that the enclosure is in good shape. If tiled check that no tiles are loose and the grout is in good shape. Check especially close around windows. Now put the plug in the bathtub and turn on the water checking faucets for damage, water pressure, hot and cold. Let it run for a bit and then check to see how well it drains. Then turn on the shower to check it for pressure and the diverter is working. Check the enclosure door works and keeps water in.

9. Check floors, walls and ceiling for defects or damage.

Helpful Inspection Tips

1. Water damage is most common below bathroom windows, toilets, fixtures and plumbing.

2. MOST LEAKS occur at penetrations(soap dishes), change of direction of material and change of material.

3. Just above the bathtub along the joint where the walls of the bathtub enclosure meet are common spots for leaks.

4. Make sure shower door opens out.

5. Test basin/tub/shower/toilet for water flow and pressure by operating at the same time.

6. Check for shower pressure it is extremely important when other fixtures are running!

7.. When testing bathroom plumbing empty tub and basin at same time to check for siphoning/gurgling noise as the last of the water leaves the fixtures. If noise is heard this will suggest venting problems.

8.. When operating the whirlpool test the GFCI for the whirlpool to make sure the pump stops.

9. Check ceilings below bathrooms after testing for water stains.

10. With bathroom exhaust fan working put hand over exterior exit point of vent to make sure there is adequate air pressure blowing/exhausting. Also throw a few pieces of toilet tissue up against the fan cover when turned on to see if there is enough air suction to hold them there.

Bathroom Whirlpool Bath

Whirlpool Bath

Checklist before operating a whirlpool bath.

1. Make sure water is 1" - 3" above jets when operating.

2. Make sure jets are open.

3. Check suction opening and pressure.

4. GFCI - make sure it stops pump when tested.

Whirlpool baths are very relaxing to bath in. Operated incorrectly and costly damage can be done. Operated unsafely and serious injury can occur.

Problem: Inoperative pump. Causes include there may be no electric power for the pump (ie. the GFCI may have tripped or may be defective), the pump motor may be burned out, the pump may be seized and/or there may be a control problem. The whirlpool function of the tub is defeated.

Problem: Excess pump noise/vibration. Excess noise or vibration may be caused by bad bearings, foreign material in the pump, cavitating pump because of air on the suction side and/or a pump that is not well secured. The implications may be premature pump failure or leakage.

Problem: No pump access. This is an installation issue. Damage to interior finishes may result when pump service is required.

Problem: Jets inoperative or immovable. The jets may be seized as a result of deterioration or foreign material. People won't be able to set up the whirlpool effect the way they want. If the jets won't deliver water damage may be done to the pump.

Problem: Dirty water from jets. The pipes on the circulation system may be dirty. This is particularly likely if the tub has been idle for some time. The system may not be sanitary.

Problem: Odor. An odor may be caused by dirt and bacterial growth in the circulation system. This is a health concern.

Problem: Suction cover missing. Hair and other things may be drawn into the circulation system. The implication is foreign materials entering the pump and possible drowning.

Problem: Surface defects. These may be the result of an impact, dripping faucets with copper or steel supply piping, harsh chemicals in the tub, sometimes the water from wells will stain and/or abrasive cleaners used on delicate materials such as acrylics. In many cases these are simply cosmetic defects. Where cracks appear mold growth is a problem.

Problem: No Ground Fault Circuit Breaker. All whirlpool tubs should have a dedicated electric circuit protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A missing GFCI is an installation issue.

Problem: Electrical switch or receptacles too close to tub. If the switches are electric they should be 3 feet or more from the tub. Receptacles should similarly be at least 3 feet from the tub. This is an installation issue. Electrocution is the risk here.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can occur at the tub itself, the pump, supply drain or circulating piping, connections at any of these, anti-siphon devices, the overflow and/or spills and splashing around the outside of the tub. These can be installation, maintenance or operation issues. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold and mildew. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Exhaust Fan

Every bathroom MUST have an exhaust fan. Excess moisture in a home will destroy the finishes and possibly do damage to the structure. Excess moisture will foster mold and/or bacterial growth to cause an unhealthy environment. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so when the bathroom temperature cools off the moisture in the air will end up on ceilings, walls and floors. Have you noticed all the moisture on a mirror after a hot bath or shower? That is because the mirror is a cool surface and the air here cannot hold as much moisture. But the worst senerio is when the moist air cools inbetween walls or if the warm air escapes into the attic where it then cools leaving the moisture behind on surfaces and unable to dry. This is the perfect conditions for rot to start working at the structure of the home.

Sometimes you will hear people say "you don't need an exhaust fan in the bathroom it has a window" you can just open it when you have a bath or shower. Right how many people do you know open the window when the outside temperature is at zero? Exactly zero!

The best exhaust fan is operated by a humidity control. The most comfortable setting is between 35 and 40% humidity. Set too low and it feels so dry that some people may get nose bleeds. Set too high and the air is not clear enough to breath comfortably. Each home depending on how many occupants and water usage will dictate the humidity setting. Many fans are never used because they make to much noise and so may be disconnected. Fans are judged by scones(amount of noise). A 1 scone is the quietest while a 3 scone may be the loudest. The better the scone the more the fan costs. Fans are sized for the square footage of the room they are to be installed in. I always say get an exhaust fan that is 50% larger than needed.

Always make sure that your exhaust fan exhausts outside, many just end in the attic. The exhausted moisture will condense with the cool air in the attic and cause major attic problems. The exhaust fan venting pipe/tubing should not have more than 2 bends. It should be as short in length as possible. The reason for this is because the moisture in the air being exhausted is heavy and without a very strong force the moist air will not make it to the end of the vent pipe. Exhaust fans have enough pressure to handle about two 90 degree bends and about 10 feet in length of pipe. This is the reason to size the fan you need a little bigger. The vent pipe should also be insulated on its exterior to prevent cool air contacting the vent pipe causing moisture to condense inside the vent pipe walls before it is exhausted outside the home. Make sure the vent has a proper closing exterior door so as not to allow bugs in or birds to enter the vent pipe and build nests.

Problem: Inadequate air movement. Inadequate air movement may be the result of obstructed, crimped or crushed duct work, obstructed exhaust hood, dirty fan blades and/or obstructed intake grille on the fan cover. Moist air is not being exhausted outside.

Problem: Fan cover missing. The fan and duct work are likely to get dirty faster with the cover missing. The fan blades and wiring are exposed and may be touched inadvertently.

Problem: Inoperative. Exhaust fans may be inoperative because of an electric problem or because the fan or motor is seized. If the fan is inoperative, it won't help reduce house humidity.

Problem: Missing. Moist air is not being exhausted outside. All bathrooms must have exhaust fans to get rid of moisture and unpleasant odors.

Bathroom Shower Stalls

SHOWER STALLS

The safety issue with shower stalls is when the door is installed opening in. If a person should pass out against the door it will be very difficult to get the door open. Also the person may suffer further injury if the water is hot and still turned on. Shower stalls can be one piece or they can be made from scratch. Most shower stalls are installed at back door bathrooms for ease of cleaning up. The weak point in most shower stalls is the joint between the floor and walls of the stall. Water leaks are common in this area

Problem: Caulking around the enclosure is old or missing and needs to be removed and new caulking applied to stop water from entering and causing water damage to floor and wall systems.

Problem: Entrance problems. The shower stall entrance width should be a minimum of 22 inches. Shower doors should be tempered glass. Shower doors should open outwards. If the water temperature suddenly gets very hot, people can't get out of the shower quickly. A bigger problem is if someone collapses in a shower stall and falls against the door, it can be very difficult to get the person out. This is an installation and safety issue.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold and mildew. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can be through faucets, soap dishes, grab bars and/or windows. As well as changes in direction or material like shower base-tile intersections, inside wall corners and/or outside wall corners where the tile ends. Leakage may result from poor grout work, poor sealing of joints, lack of maintenance and/or building settlement. Leaks are possible through the supply and drain piping as well. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Rust. Moisture is the obvious cause of rust. Although the metal is usually protected by paint or another surfacing material, flaws inevitably occur or unfinished areas at joints are exposed to moisture. It's tough to keep a rusty shower stall sanitary. Eventually the rust will go through the metal and the shower stall will lose its integrity.

Problem: Sills and thresholds at shower stalls should be watertight and should be tall enough to control the shower water. Poor original construction or maintenance can lead to leakage at and around sills and thresholds. Sills and thresholds that are too low are an installation issue. In both cases leakage is the implication.

Bathroom Bathtub and Bathtub Enclosure Problems

BATHTUB

For some reason bathtubs give a house ambiance. A house without a bathtub feels like there is something missing. Bathtubs come in all shapes and sizes. If a bathtub is installed tight to a wall it must caulked along the wall and floor. This caulking should be monitored for integrity all the time. Bathtubs can be re-covered to look like new well still in place. Change color, new fixtures and what a face lift.

Problem: Surface defects. These may be a manufacturing defect, the result of an impact, dripping faucets with copper or steel supply piping, harsh chemicals used in the bathtub, sometimes the water from wells will stain and/or abrasive cleaners used on delicate materials such as acrylics. In many cases these are simply cosmetic defects. Where enamel is chipped away from stainless steel, rusting is the longer term implication. Where cracks appear in the surface, leakage through the crack may become a serious problem. Mold growth in the cracks is a health issue.

Problem: Drain plug inoperative or missing. You will not be able to have a bath.

Problem: Leaks. Leak around bathtubs are related to the drain connection and/or the overflow. Leaks at drain and overflow connections can be the result of pipe strain caused by settlement or mechanical damage. The leaks may cause water damage.

Problem: Slow drain. Slow drains are usually from clogs.

BATHTUB ENCLOSURE

The most important item in the bathroom is the bathtub enclosure. Not installed or maintained properly and it will cost you, how much is the question. If the water has leaked for a long time and never been able to dry out, the floor and wall framing my be rotten. If the wall framing needs to be replaced and it is on an interior wall then only drywall will likely need to be replaced in the other room. Then taping the joints, mudding and sanding twice, painting and finish trim. Hope there is no electrical wires going through this wall. Also hope there is no cabinets on the other side of the wall. If the wall framing needs to be replaced on an outside wall the siding will need to be reinstalled and painted. Hope it is not high in the air or you will also need scaffolding.

In both cases the bathtub has to be removed and plumbing disconnected. Now replace the plywood flooring(hope no joist are rotten), wall framing, insulation and vapor barrier if on an outside wall, hook up plumbing and reinstall bathtub, drywall, install new bathtub enclosure or if it is tiled there is considerably more work involved, install finished flooring in the bathroom, finish trim, paint, then caulk around the complete enclosure and bathtub. Caulking around a bathtub and enclosure MUST be regularly monitored and maintained. Windows in bathtub enclosures are extremely vulnerable to water leakage.

Problem: Caulking. Caulking around the bathtub enclosure is old or missing and needs to be removed. Then new caulking applied to stop water from entering and causing water damage to floor and wall systems.

Problem: Electrical problems at the enclosure. Where lighting fixtures are provided inside tub and shower enclosures, there should be a vapor proof fixture designed for this application. Electric light switches and receptacles should be at least 3 feet away (out of the reach of) shower stalls and bathtub enclosures. These problems are installation issues. They are also life safety issues.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can be through faucets, soap dishes, grab bars and/or windows. As well as changes and/or direction in material like tub-tile intersections, inside wall corners and/or outside wall corners where the tile ends. Leakage may result from poor grout work, poor sealing of joints, lack of maintenance and/or building settlement. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Sometimes tiles are broken, cracked or missing. More often the tiles are loose because of failed grout and/or adhesive and/or failed backer material. The tiles will not be watertight if they are not secure. If the backer material starts to deteriorate tiles will eventually fall off the wall. The more immediate concern is that water will get in behind the backer material and attack the wall and floor systems behind and below. Considerable water damage can be done to the structure.

To check for moisture behind your floor or wall covering use a moisture meter. The meter has different settings depending on the depth of material needed to penetrate. The meter will give you a loud beeping noise to tell you if it detects moisture. These meters can be rented at a equipment rental store. The rental people will be more than happy to explain how to use the meter.

Bathroom Toilet and Bidet Problems

TOILETS

Have you ever flushed a toilet after using it and instead of emptying it just keeps filling up and then starts overflowing? I'll venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. Have you ever drank to much and then find yourself kneeling in front of the toilet. I venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. Have you ever been sick and stuff just wants to come out of both ends while running to the toilet. I venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. The toilet appears to be a place of great reverence and maybe that's why it is referred to as the throne.

Problem: Damage. Broken tank lid or seat. The toilet may not be usable if the seat is missing or broken. Missing or broken tank lids may allow foreign materials into the tank.

Problem: Floor damage suspected. Floor damage is usually the result of leakage around and below the toilet. Damage to the subflooring, structure and finishes below are the implications.

Problem: Inoperative. This is usually a mechanical disconnection inside the tank. The toilet won't work if you can't initiate a flush.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may be caused by cracks in the tank or bowl, poor connections, corrosion or splitting of the supply pipe. A defective wax ring or gasket at the toilet/floor intersection, a toilet not well secured to the floor, poor connection between the tank and bowl, a failed gasket at the tank/bowl connection and/or a dislodged bowl refill tube. Toilet leaks can cause water damage and waste water.

Problem: Loose. The causes of a loose toilet include the toilet may not have been well secured initially, the support bolts corroded and/or the floor system to which the toilet flange is secured may have problems. The implications of a loose toilet are leaks, particularly at the wax ring and at the supply piping connection.

Problem: Obstructed. Toilets may be clogged because of solids that were intended to be put down the toilet and/or objects that were not intended to go into a toilet. The toilet won't work and you run the risk of flooding the bathroom if the toilet is obstructed.

Problem: Odor. An odor around a toilet usually indicates leakage of the wax ring or gasket where the toilet connects to the waste piping. There are health implications and damage possibilities to finishes and structural members around and below the toilet.

Problem: Water is running continuously. Toilets may run continuously because of a problem with a fill valve or a flush valve. The implications of a running toilet are wasted water, sweating (condensation) and/or nuisance noise.

Problem: Shut off valve is missing. All toilets should have a shutoff valve located adjacent to the toilet. The toilet can't be shutoff in an emergency.

BIDET

In many parts of the world bidets are a standard item in a bathroom but for some reason you seldom see them in North America. They seem to be installed in very expensive homes only.

Problem: Floor damage suspected. Floor damage is usually the result of leakage around and below the bidet. Damage to the subflooring, structure and finishes below are the implications.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can result from failures in supply piping or connections, failures in drain piping or connections, leaks at the vacuum breaker, leaks in the bowl of the fixture itself and/or leaks in the gasket where the bidet sits on the floor and connects to the drain system. Bidet leaks can cause water damage and waste water.

Problem: Loose. Bidets may be loose because of poor original installation, bolts rusting, floor deterioration and/or bolts working loose. The implications of a loose bidet are leaks at supply and drain connections.

Problem: Shut off valve is missing. All bidets should have a shutoff valve located adjacent to the bidet. The bidet can't be shutoff in an emergency.

Problem: Spray/rim wash diverter inoperative. This could be a defective or worn diverter. It could also be an improperly installed diverter. The unit cannot be used as intended if the diverter doesn't work.

Bathroom Basin and Trap Problems

BASINS

Not all of us wash so perfectly that all the water ends up in the basin. This being the case the countertop the basin sits on should have a splashboard along the wall. It should be caulked along the top of the splashboard and around the basin if it is not a tight fit.

Problem: Surface defects. Some may only be unpleasant to look at but some defects like chips may collect bacteria and become a health concern.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may be the result of defective faucets or faucet connections, cracks in bowls, poor drain connections or leaking drainage pipes, poor trap connections, cleanouts or split traps, poor connections at pop-up drain stoppers and/or rusting through of welded overflows on enameled steel basins. The implication of leaks is primarily water damage.

Problem: Loose. Loose fixtures may be the result of poor installation, vibration over time and/or physical abuse (children hoisting themselves up onto sinks, for example). Loose fixtures are likely to strain supply and drain pipes. Leakage is a likely implication.

Problem: Slow drain. Slow drains may be caused by pop-up drain stoppers that don't pop up high enough, obstructions in the strainer, tailpiece, trap, trap arm or elsewhere in the drain system. Undersized trap drain piping, improper drain slope, ineffective venting and/or frozen pipes. Slow drains will generally get worst/slower and eventually become plugged from improper design or installation.

TRAPS

Traps are taken for granted and never really noticed till your sink does not drain. Most of the time when a basin does not drain the trap is clogged with hair that has got caught on the drain stopper. True appreciation of a trap comes when you drop a piece of jewellery in the basin and it disappears. Traps are designed to be taken off and replaced easily and quickly. Just put a pail under the trap and unscrew(counter clockwise no tools needed) by hand the two large hand tightened nuts. Drop everything in the pail. Clean the trap, then install it back the way it was by just hand tightening the large locking nuts. Traps are designed to stop smell from the sewer coming back into the house so after re-installing the trap run water till you feel comfortable the trap is full and draining properly again.

Problem: Clogged. Traps may clog because the trap is a poor type, shape or size, double trapping, the tail piece is too long and/or foreign material is stuck in the trap. The fixture will not drain, at least not at its normal speed.

Problem: Double trapping. The speed at which the waste moves through the trap is important. If we have double trapping, the velocity coming into the second trap will be reduced and solids are more likely to collect and clog the second trap. The implication of double trapping is clogging of the trap. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may occur because the trap is rusted or worn through, the connections are not water tight, the trap has been mechanically damaged or frozen and split and/or the trap has been unsuccessfully repaired. Waste leaking into the home is a health issue and a water damage issue.

Problem: Improper material. Traps shape is critical and so are smooth inside walls. Homemade traps or traps made from different materials than those that are approved, are usually not successful. Their depth of seal may be appropriate, but they won't maintain the proper velocity and self scouring effect. This is an installation issue. The trap is not likely to perform well and is more likely to clog or siphon.

Problem: Missing. Every fixture should be provided with a trap, except for a toilet. This is an installation issue. An unhealthy environment in the house will result if sewer gases find their way into the home.

Bathroom Faucet Problems

FAUCET - basin/lavatory, bathtub and shower

Faucets get used every day many times over. They can become a health concern if not kept clean. Faucets can cost a lot of money to replace if abused. They can burn you badly if not working properly. The faucet that drips slowly will waste a lot of water and can cause a lot of damage to the cabinet and other parts of the home. A large leak will be taken care of immediately and so will likely cause minimal damage. A slow leak will not seem serious and so will not get fixed right away. It is this slow leak that will cause the most damage because it never dries out.

Problem: Surface defects. Chips, cracks or lifting of the surface covering. These may be a manufacturing defect or the result of an impact. In may cases these are simply cosmetic defects but may also be easy to cut your hand. Rust may also develop.

Problem: Damage. You may not be able to operate the valves. It's very easy to cut your hand on a damaged faucet handle.

Problem: Leaks or drips. Faucets may leak water out through the body of the faucet, at their connection to the plumbing system, out through the spout and/or at connections to flexible hoses. The implications of dripping faucets are usually not severe, since the water ends up in the fixture. Leaks through the body of the faucet are usually more dangerous because of the water damage they can do to countertops.

Problem: Loose. Loose faucets may be caused by an installation issue, components working loose through vibration and/or mechanical damage. Loose faucets are prone to leakage as a result of strain on fittings.

Problem: Noisy. Water hammer is usually the result of quick closing fixtures at the end of long, relatively straight lines where water has a considerable momentum. Where water hammer exists valves must either be closed slowly or have some kind of cushion. Valve chatter is usually a worn valve or seat on a compression type faucet. Valves that whistle are usually defective and have to be replaced. The implications of chatter and whistle are valve failure.

Problem: Excess pressure. Where the water supply exceeds 80 psi a pressure regulator should be installed. Excess pressure is the result of a strong city supply system. The implications of excess pressure are leaking valves and faucets, as well as solenoid valve failures.

Problem: Low pressure or flow. Some of the most common causes for poor pressure or flow are rusted galvanized steel piping, undersized or excessively long pipe runs, a weak water source (well and pump system or poor municipal distribution grid). A partially closed valve or valves, crimped or obstructed piping, silt in the water meter, plugged aerators at faucets. Sludge in the water heater, water softeners or water treatment equipment , undersized, crimped or deteriorated water service piping and/or tall homes well above the water source. The implications are less water at each fixture than is desirable.

Problem: Shower diverter inoperative or defective. This can be a problem with the diverter itself, or it can be that the water pressure is so low that the diverter won't be held open. People can't take a shower.

Problem: Shut off valve is missing. All facets should have a shutoff valve located under the basin. The water can't be shutoff in an emergency.

NUMBER 1 IMPORTANT factor before repairing or adding an addition

Rule # 1

Your building/home must be level! If it is not level everything you do now will be out of level. If you try to put new siding on do you put it on level or on with the slope of the house? If you put the siding on level and later decide you want to level the house then your new siding will be out of level. This applies to doors, windows, evestroughes or gutters, decks and the list goes on.

It was probably one of the most shocking things to me during my construction years to actually see how many buildings have shifted. As much as 3 to 5 inches is not uncommon. The number one reason for buildings moving is that people/builders seem to forget how much weight a building weighs when finished being built and how much pressure it will put on each square foot of ground. If a building is started on solid undisturbed ground with good footings the better chance it has of being level today. Some whole subdivisions are built on filled in swamps or the side of hills that may be unstable and move over time... Some contractors are more concerned with making fast money than quality craftsmanship. The rule of thumb is don't trust what anyone has to say about levelness because the odds are nobody really knows what kind of ground is under your home. Always check for building levelness before doing any construction project. A new house will be hard to judge because mother nature has not had its say yet.

If you want to be sure your house is level get a electronic self leveling instrument for checking levelness. This tool will have infrared beams shooting out horizontally exactly level from the spot you place the instrument. If there is to many walls in the way you may have to go in the crawl space but try to take all measurements from the same place or make a mark and move that mark so you are taking all measurements of the same height. So from the floor to the beam it may be 4 inches on one wall so across the house the same measurement should also be 4 inches. Your most accurate points of measurement will be along the outside walls and at the points where posts are supporting the beams. Most rental stores even lumber yards like Home Depot have these instruments to rent and will gladly show you how to operate them.

Leveling a house may be cheap or expensive depending on what has to done. This may be the time to call a qualified carpenter for further evaluation to give you some suggestions and a estimate of time and cost to do the required work. ALWAYS get at least 3 different opinions from qualified tradesmen that will still be in business years from now so that there work guarantee means something.

Home owner problems

Owning Real Estate can be challenging!

smart investment --------------------- money pit

weekends off -------------------------- never ending second job

quality craftsmanship ---------------- home owner repairs

healthy environment ----------------- lead paint, mold, stale air...

Buying Selling Maintenance Many home owners have no idea how healthy their investment really is. Is your home leaking heat or cool air out around doors and windows? Ever notice how problems like furnaces stop working at night on a weekend.

Is this one of the biggest investments of your life? You already know you did not forsee the problem coming but now because of weather you have to get the problem fixed quickly and will now probably pay more than you should and probably not get the quality of craftsmanship you hoped for.

Number ONE biggest home owner problem is lack of or no maintenance! Your home is a living breathing unit that interacts with the climate/weather on the outside and all the conditions we subject it to on the inside.

The Checklist

A SMART homeowner will have a checklist of things to look at once every week, every season and when ever there has been bad weather. The checklist will let you know when items installed on your home are in need of maintenance(evestoughes, chimneys), repair(siding, handrails) or monitoring(brick mortar, branches over power lines). Many items installed on/in a home have a limited life expectancy such as roofing and hot water tanks. Damage can happen at any time(bad weather, kids playing). Bugs and rodents get active in the spring and fall possibly finding your crawlspace a perfect nesting place. When I inspect crawlspaces rats and all kinds of bugs seem to be the most common critters found but one fall at my brother inlaws a cougar had decided to move into his crawlspace. I advised him to close the access door after the cougar left. When you have and use a checklist regularly you will know when something needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced. The checklist will make you aware of the up coming problem/concern and give you time to shop around for the best price, quality of product and craftsmanship.

If you have a concern with your home contact me for a detailed answer with a estimated time frame and cost to deal with the concern using a qualified tradesman.