Bathroom Basin and Trap Problems

BASINS

Not all of us wash so perfectly that all the water ends up in the basin. This being the case the countertop the basin sits on should have a splashboard along the wall. It should be caulked along the top of the splashboard and around the basin if it is not a tight fit.

Problem: Surface defects. Some may only be unpleasant to look at but some defects like chips may collect bacteria and become a health concern.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may be the result of defective faucets or faucet connections, cracks in bowls, poor drain connections or leaking drainage pipes, poor trap connections, cleanouts or split traps, poor connections at pop-up drain stoppers and/or rusting through of welded overflows on enameled steel basins. The implication of leaks is primarily water damage.

Problem: Loose. Loose fixtures may be the result of poor installation, vibration over time and/or physical abuse (children hoisting themselves up onto sinks, for example). Loose fixtures are likely to strain supply and drain pipes. Leakage is a likely implication.

Problem: Slow drain. Slow drains may be caused by pop-up drain stoppers that don't pop up high enough, obstructions in the strainer, tailpiece, trap, trap arm or elsewhere in the drain system. Undersized trap drain piping, improper drain slope, ineffective venting and/or frozen pipes. Slow drains will generally get worst/slower and eventually become plugged from improper design or installation.

TRAPS

Traps are taken for granted and never really noticed till your sink does not drain. Most of the time when a basin does not drain the trap is clogged with hair that has got caught on the drain stopper. True appreciation of a trap comes when you drop a piece of jewellery in the basin and it disappears. Traps are designed to be taken off and replaced easily and quickly. Just put a pail under the trap and unscrew(counter clockwise no tools needed) by hand the two large hand tightened nuts. Drop everything in the pail. Clean the trap, then install it back the way it was by just hand tightening the large locking nuts. Traps are designed to stop smell from the sewer coming back into the house so after re-installing the trap run water till you feel comfortable the trap is full and draining properly again.

Problem: Clogged. Traps may clog because the trap is a poor type, shape or size, double trapping, the tail piece is too long and/or foreign material is stuck in the trap. The fixture will not drain, at least not at its normal speed.

Problem: Double trapping. The speed at which the waste moves through the trap is important. If we have double trapping, the velocity coming into the second trap will be reduced and solids are more likely to collect and clog the second trap. The implication of double trapping is clogging of the trap. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may occur because the trap is rusted or worn through, the connections are not water tight, the trap has been mechanically damaged or frozen and split and/or the trap has been unsuccessfully repaired. Waste leaking into the home is a health issue and a water damage issue.

Problem: Improper material. Traps shape is critical and so are smooth inside walls. Homemade traps or traps made from different materials than those that are approved, are usually not successful. Their depth of seal may be appropriate, but they won't maintain the proper velocity and self scouring effect. This is an installation issue. The trap is not likely to perform well and is more likely to clog or siphon.

Problem: Missing. Every fixture should be provided with a trap, except for a toilet. This is an installation issue. An unhealthy environment in the house will result if sewer gases find their way into the home.