Wall and Ceiling Problems

Walls and Ceilings

Wall height and spacing give homes their comfort feeling of openness or cramped. Walls give the home structural support and should not be removed without a qualified opinion. Walls are generally spaced at 16 or 24 inch centers. Nice to know when trying to hang a picture. When attaching/hanging an item to a wall or ceiling always try to penetrate a stud or ceiling joist/rafter at least one inch with a screw for safety against falling and possibly causing injury or damage.

Problem: Cracks. The majority are cosmetic and are related to incidental movement of the structure. This includes shrinkage and expansion of building materials behind the finishes. Most cracks are cosmetic.

Problem: Damage. Mechanical damage is typically the result of impact. This is often furniture being pushed against walls, although it can be several other things. Mechanical damage is usually localized and calls for minor repair.

Problem: Drywall/Plaster may be crumbly have nail pops and/or visual joints. Nail pops in new construction are a common result of shrinkage of wood framing members. Poor joints in drywall are an original installation issue. Crumbly drywall/plaster is quite often from moisture. These are cosmetic issues and easily corrected.

Problem: Trim problems. Loose or missing trim can allow air leakage into building components which may result in condensation damage. Trim should be provided around all exterior doors, windows and wall penetrations.

Problem: Water damage to walls can be caused by roof, plumbing, window, skylight or door leaks (especially sliding glass doors) or condensation. There may also be damage to the structure behind or it may simply be cosmetic.

Floor Problems

Floors

Normal wear and tear may be cosmetic only but flooring protects the structure of your building. The most noticeable common floor issues are squeaks. The plywood covering the floor joists should always be glued. The plywood is attached to the joist with an air nailer because of its speed now adays and the lower cost of the nails. Screws are the best choice because they rarely back off/out like nails tend to do. The lower humidity in homes after they have been completed will suck the moisture out of the wood causing the wood to contract resulting in the nails popping or backing out.

When walking over a floor it should not bounce. A moving floor means that it was not supported properly in the construction stage. If not corrected the floor will only deflect more possibly causing further damage to the building. Floor joist should never be more than 12 inches apart and should be sized according to the span between the beams. Wherever there is a opening in a floor the joist should be doubled or tripled according to the size of the opening.

Floor coverings should be appropriate for the room or hallway they will be installed in. At exterior entrances the flooring should be durable and water resistant. In bathrooms and kitchens the flooring should be water resistant and easy to clean up. Flooring around fireplaces should be fire resistant for at least 18 to 24 inches. Floor coverings have a life span so purchasing the right product for the application is an absolute must.

Problem: Absorbent materials in wet areas. Floors in rooms that are likely to get wet should have nonabsorbent, moisture resistant flooring materials. This is an installation choice. Premature deterioration of the flooring is one implication. Rot damage to subflooring is another. Odors and other indoor air quality issues may create health concerns.

Problem: Carpet. Rot, stains and odors may be the result of water problems. Stains and odors can also be the result of spills and/or pets. The implications of rot, stains and odors may be cosmetic. They may also indicate damage to subflooring and framing below. There may be health implications to stains and odors.

Problem: Ceramic/stone/marble loose, grout missing, cracked, worn or stains. Tiles that are

cracked, broken, loose or have missing grout may be the result of excessive deflection of the

substrate and/or improper installation, including surface preparation, mortar amount and quality and/or grout amount and quality. Cracked, broken or loose tiles and tiles with grout missing can lead to water damage to the subfloor and may present trip hazards.

2. Worn tile may be the result of normal wear and tear, mechanical damage (such as heavy appliances being dragged across the floor) and/or the use of wall tiles on floors (wall tiles are not as durable). Worn tiles may only be cosmetic issues but can be trip hazards if corners are broken or pieces are loose.

3. Stains are typically the result of spills. Stains are usually cosmetic issues only.

Problem: Most concrete floors crack as a result of shrinkage during curing. Shrinkage cracks are usually not significant.

Problem: Damage. Damage may be a trip hazard and can allow water into subflooring.

Problem: Loose or missing pieces. This is usually a result of failed adhesives, mechanical damage or poor installation. The implications include trip hazards and moisture penetration to subflooring. There are also cosmetic issues.

Problem: Vinyl floor covering. Resilient flooring split, lifted or open seams. Implications are water damage to the subflooring below and trip hazards.

Problem: Squeaks. Squeaks are typically caused by finished flooring not being held tightly against subflooring or subflooring not sitting tightly against joists. The implications of squeaks are simply a nuisance. Squeaks do not indicate structural problems. Squeaks are common and are not a performance issue.

Problem: T & G (tongue and groove) exposed tongues. Exposed tongues on tongue and groove flooring are usually the result of sanding the floor to create a new wood finish. Pieces of flooring may become loose and/or lift as a result.

Problem: Trim missing. Trim is provided to protect the wall covering from damage (such as when vacuuming).

Problem: Trip hazard. Someone could be injured.

Problem: Water damage. Water damage to floors can be the result of roof or flashing leaks, plumbing leaks, heating leaks, air conditioning leaks, wall, window or skylight leaks and/or door leaks (especially sliding glass doors). Spills from humidifiers, dehumidifiers, watering plants, aquariums, bathtubs, showers, sinks, basins, etc. Ice damming, condensation, melting snow from boots and winter clothing and/or careless floor washing. The implications of water damage may be cosmetic only if the source of water has been contained, rot, staining, damage to the floor finish and/or other damage to structural components.

Problem: Wood. Wood rotted, warped, buckled or stained wood floors are the result of water damage. Wood is vulnerable to rot attack when the moisture content is above 20%. The implications of rot, warped, buckled or stained flooring include cosmetic problems, trip hazards and/or deterioration of the structure below.

Home Inspection Tools

Tools

These tools can and will make your home inspection informative. For as long as you own a home you will have a use for these tools many times over. You may think the cost of these tools are expensive now but if you need to pay for the cost of repairs not noticed the cost of these tools will seem cheap. The real bonus is if you can catch a problem in its early stages before the cost of repair can really escalate. Learn how to use these tools and your investment will stay healthy.

Infrared Temperature Gun - check the heat of objects such as the intake and supply temperatures of your furnace or air conditioner.

Thermal Leak Detector Gun - check for air leakage around wall penetrations.

Humidity Meter - to check humidity in places such as crawlspaces.

Moisture Meter - to check behind coverings for moisture around bathtub enclosures and floors.

Plumb Bob - to check for vertical level such as doors.

Awl - for poking wood posts to check for rot.

Inspection Mirror - has built in expandable arm to check behind items.

Door Problems

Doors

Doors are for privacy and security. Exterior doors are made from solid wood or foam wrapped in metal. The R value(insulation rating) varies widely with material used to make them as much as the thickness matters. The higher the R value the better the insulation rating. Exterior doors should always have 3 sturdy 4 inch or better hinges attached with at least one 4 inch wood screw in each hinge through the door frame and well into the wall framing. Exterior doors can be quit heavy. Door handles should have key locking, many also have a dead bolt. All exterior door hardware should be made from brass to avoid rusting. All exterior doors should be weather stripped along the outside edge and have a door sweep installed along the bottom edge. The underneath side of the door sill should be well caulked to help avoid water entering in bad weather possibly getting under the entrance floor covering material causing it to lift.

Interior doors are generally hollow and made from very light material. They should have about a one inch clearance along the bottom for ease of opening and air circulation in the home. The hardware consists of 2 hinges and a non locking handle. Bathrooms are the only interior door that should have a lock on the inside of the door for privacy. If a door becomes hard to open this could indicate the house is settling and the frame may need adjusting or the door trimming. Some homes have adjusting teleposts in the basement in place of regular posts that support the beams. It may simply be a matter of screwing up the post for the door to become aligned again.

The most accurate method of checking your door for level is to use a plumb bob(a string with a weight attached). Hang the plumb bob along the sides of the door frame makeing sure the string hangs the full height of the door but does not touch the floor. The top of the frame should be checked with a hand level. When hanging a door always start with the hinge side, make sure the top is level and finish with the opening side. Doors should always open in so the person on the inside can always get out. An outside door should never open out this way the pins holding the hinges together will always be on the inside for security.

Problem: Damage. Damage to doors is usually impact. The door may not swing properly and be secure. The implications are water, and air leakage and possibly injuring someone.

Problem: Hardware problems. Hardware problems include rusted, broken, missing, loose and/or inoperable. These may be broken springs, misalignment or missing pieces. Doors should latch positively. Hardware problems will frustrate people using them and possibly cause further damage to the door and its frame.

Problem: Trim problems. Loose or missing trim can allow air leakage into building components which may result in condensation damage. Trim should be provided around all doors..

Problem: Caulking around Door frames. Caulking may be missing, loose and/or deteriorated (cracked, shrunk, dried out). Moisture may get into the building structure causing water damage. Caulking may have failed as result of using the wrong caulk for the job, caulking dirty surfaces, caulking during adverse weather. Caulking is a maintenance issue, ensuring the water and air tightness of the building.

Problem: Condensation between panes. Condensation between panes on sealed multi-glazed windows indicates a failed seal. Condensation will typically only show up when there is a big temperature difference between indoors and outside.

Problem: Cracked glass. Cracked glass may be caused by mechanical damage or building settlement. The implications are water and air leakage and possibly injuring someone.

Problem: Door sill or threshold needs to be caulked underneath to prevent water entry. The implication is water getting under the finished floor covering and lifting it.

Problem: No drip cap. Drip cap flashings are installed behind the siding and over the door to keep water from above getting into the walls from around the door. The implications are water entry into and damage to the wall system..

Problem: No step up into house. Where snow accumulates, there should be a step going up into the house from the landing. The landing should not be flush with the threshold. Water and snow are likely to get in around the bottom of the door. The door may also become water damaged over time.

Problem: No weather stripping. Weather stripping keeps cold air drafts out and the heat in for better comfort and energy savings.

Problem: Paint/stain. Most wood products need regular paint or stain. Paint helps to protect against rotting and deterioration as a result of ultraviolet light. Paint also provides some mechanical protection against water passing over wood. The implication of missing or failed paint or stain is deterioration of the wood.

Problem: Rust. Metal rusts as it is exposed to weathering.

Window and Skylight Problems

Windows/Skylights/Solarium's

Determining the condition of insulated glass windows is not always possible due to temperature, weather and lighting conditions. Condensation on windows is a sign the home is telling you that the humidity is to high. Condensation is caused by inefficient exhaust fans in the kitchens and bathrooms, curtains closed, poor air movement and poor air exchange. The paint will peel and bubble on walls and ceilings if high humidity is not addressed. About one third of the air in a home should be exchanged every hour to eliminate gassing from the glues in counters, cabinets, carpets, paint, odors... It is recommended that trim be installed on all windows and doors to stop warm moist air going into the building structure where it will condense against the cold exterior walls. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so that when the air touches a cold surface it can not hold as much moisture any more and so condensation forms on the cooler surface that the warm air touches. Many windows have mold growing on the sills from stagnant cold air pockets behind closed curtains. Mold will not grow without moisture unfortunately people like the humidity at about 35%, any less and the air is too dry for comfort, any more and the air is too moist for the building structure. So exchanging and exhausting the moist air in our homes is very important for us and our homes.

A lot of people believe shutting a room door will save on having to heat that room, to some extent that is true. But when the warm air from the rest of the house moves through openings that are not air tight(like under doors) moisture in the warm air will condense because the cooler air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air. This is especially noticeable on windows. The best window for the cost is a double pane window because it has an insulating space between the two panes of glass. The best frame for a window is plastic because it does not hold the cold as well as metal and wood. There is a popular myth that upgrading windows will save you money but the cost savings will take many years to recover. The most efficient way to save money is to weather seal around the windows with foam and caulk.

Skylights come in all shapes and sizes. They are generally located where more light is desired into the home. 99% of skylight problems are installation issues. They are installed on the roof where the home is most vulnerable to water leakage. The higher the step(4 to 8 inches) off the surface of the roof (depends on the slope) the less chance of leaves and debris building up on the top edge of the skylight giving moisture a chance to creep in over the top step edge. The lower the slope the higher the step should be. It is vitally important to understand how to flash a skylight. The bottom flashing is installed first, then the step flashing's up the sides inter-weaving between the shingles and then the top flashing pan last. I am always amazed when checking skylights for security(screwed or nailed to the step box) at how many of them are not attached at all. In the attic, skylight wells need to insulated as good as any wall in the house. This is a very common place for poor insulation installing. The insulation is always falling off.

Solarium's are a complete room made from windows. They are notorious for leaking. Absolutely make sure if you get one installed that it is installed by a company that will be around many years from now to service, if needed, their warranty. Absolutely get 3 job referrals that you can phone/visit to check the quality of the installing companies workmanship. Never settle for a home made solarium, you are guaranteed grief!

Problem: Glass cracked. Cracked glass may be caused by mechanical damage or building settlement. Implications are water and air leakage and possibly injuring someone. Loosing heat or conditioned air through the crack is a cost concern.

Problem: Condensation. Condensation is caused from to high humidity, poor air movement, inefficient exhaust fans and poor air exchange. Ice can form in cold temperatures on the window panes itself. If not corrected moisture damage to the area around the window is the implication. Mold will grow if not corrected causing a health concern.

Problem: Condensation between panes. Condensation between panes on sealed multi-glazed windows indicates a failed seal. Condensation will typically only show up when there is a big temperature difference between indoors and outside.

Problem: Water leaks. Water leakage may result in damage to windows and wall assemblies below as well as interior finishes and may result in concealed rot damage.

Problem: Lintel sagging or missing. If the lintel is missing or ineffective you will see a sag across the top of the window or window group. Windows may be difficult to operate and glass may crack. Missing or undersized lintels are an installation issue.

Problem: Window does not open. There will be no ventilation with a window that does not

open.

Problem: Not locking. If the locking hardware is missing or not working security is compromised.

Problem: Screens may be missing or torn. Screens are designed to keep insects and pests out of the home.

Problem: Trim problems. Loose or missing trim can allow air leakage into building components which may result in condensation damage.

Problem: Caulking around window frames. Caulking may be missing, loose and/or deteriorated (cracked, shrunk, dried out). Moisture may get into the building structure and cause water damage. Caulking may have failed as result of using the wrong caulk for the job, caulking dirty surfaces and/or caulking during adverse weather. Caulking is a maintenance issue ensuring the water/air tightness of the building.

Problem: Damage. Implications are water/air leakage, possibly injuring someone.

Problem: No drip cap. Drip cap flashing's are installed behind the siding and over the windows to keep water from above getting into the structure from around the window. The implications are water entry into and damage to the wall system.

Problem: Paint stain. Most wood products need regular paint/stain. Paint helps to protect against rotting and deterioration as a result of ultraviolet light. Paint also provides some mechanical protection against water passing over wood. The implication of missing or failed paint/stain is deterioration of the wood.

Problem: Putty (glazing compound) problems. Putty is used to secure windows in sashes or mutins. Failed putty can result in air and water leakage through the window system.

Problem: Rot. Rot may be the result of horizontal surfaces or other configurations that collect water. Failure to maintain paint, stain, caulking or glazing compound (putty). The longer it takes for the water to leave, the more likely rot is to develop. Good design and maintenance allows water to drain away quickly. The implications include water and air leakage.

Problem: Rust. Rust may eventually eat through the metal causing it to lose its integrity.

Problem: Deteriorated sill. Window sills deteriorate primarily because of exposure to sun and water.

Problem: Sill slope. Poor sill slope may be a result of original installation and/or building frame shrinkage. Good sills have a pronounced slope down away from the window. Good sills also include a projection out from the wall so that water running off the sill does not soak the wall below. Another good detail on window sills is a groove cut in the underside of the sill, roughly an inch in from the face of sill but well away from the wall. This groove runs along the length of the sill parallel to the wall. This creates a capillary break that stops water from running along the underside of the sill back to the wall because of surface tension. Where this groove is missing, a bead of caulking can be run along the underside of the windowsill where the capillary break would be located. An improper sill slope will hold water which can cause rot over time and possibly damage the integrity to the window frame.

Window Wells

Problem: Damaged. Damaged wells result from deterioration of the wall materials and/or soil pressure, often associated with freeze/thaw problems. Window wells are little retaining walls. Where these small retaining walls have moved or suffered damage improvements will be needed.

Problem: Missing. Where basement windows are less than six to eight inches above grade level, wells should be provided. The window wells may be missing because the finished grade ended up higher than intended. Missing wells create wood/soil contact and may create water problems in the foundation or basement. Metal windows and frames may rust. Wood components may rot.

Problem: Not deep enough. Window wells are constructed to protect the below grade window. If the well is not deep enough it will not do its intended job.

Problem: Drain problems. Drains may be missing, not connected, broken and/or obstructed. Water entry into the basement may result. Window frames may rust or rot. Well walls may suffer freeze/thaw damage. Outside drains need constant monitoring. The implications for a drain not working is flooding.

Problem: Wood/soil contact. Wood/soil contact can occur if window wells are missing or if the floor of the window well is too high. It may also allow water into the basement. Wood will rot when left in contact with soil over time.

Window Inspection and Maintenance Tips

1. On the outside of all windows(except wood) you will notice holes at the bottom of the frame. These are drain holes and should be kept clean at all times for proper water drainage. Make sure they are located at the bottom and on the outside. If they are not the window was not installed correctly.

2. Make sure around the edges of the window are caulked tightly if not remove old caulking and apply new exterior caulk. If color match up is a problem use clear. To give a smooth finish to the caulk wet your finger before smoothing it. If the gap is big use a spray Styrofoam to fill it first. This foam comes in a small can available at any hardware store. It is extremely dangerous material so follow safety instructions when using it.

3. Above all windows there should be a drip cap flashing to help direct water away from getting in behind the siding. There is a 1 to 4 rule in construction for window flashing. For example if the window is within 6 inches of a 2 foot roof overhang(soffit) the window does not need a top flashing.

4. There is an easy method for checking for air leakage around windows. You must be sure the outside temperature is different than the inside temperature. The tool is called a infrared temperature gun. When the infrared light is pointed at a surface there is a digital temperature read out at the back of the gun for easy viewing. Point the infrared light all around the edge of the window frame and with very little practise you will be able to tell which windows are leaking warm or cool air. The windows edges that are not leaking air will have the same surface temperature as the siding.

Bathroom Maintenance Inspection Checklist

Bathroom Checklist

Procedure. Always have a routine when inspecting or using your checklist. Always start and finish the same place and you will be less likely to miss a concern. Your checklist should have a space at the end of each item checked so that you can mark what the status is of that item. If something needs to be done write it down. NEVER leave your routine and try not to be distracted by a telephone call or talking to someone. By regularly checking everything you will notice immediately when an item is not right like draining or water pressure. I like to use:

OK no deficiencies noted.

or

Condition: write in what is of concern.

TASK:

Further evaluation required calling a plumber recommended.

Improve.

Monitor.

Provide.

Repair.

Replace.

TIME:

Discretionary.

Immediate.

Less than one year.

Less than two years.

Regular maintenance.

Unpredictable.

1. When entering the bathroom look at the door inside and outside for damage and in need of paint or stain. Check that the hardware(door handle) works, locks, is properly secured and is not damaged. Door hinges are secure and not rusted. Personally I like to see the bottom of interior doors spaced about one inch from the floor for better air movement throughout the house.

2. Turn on the light checking that the switch is in good condition, works, not damaged, not loose and a switch cover that is not damaged. People like good lighting in a bathroom so there may be multiple switches and lights to check. NOTE: electrical is covered in more detail in the electrical section.

3. Test the GFCI(ground fault circuit interrupter) plug-in, it has a test button in the middle of it. I also use a cheap $10 electrical tester at all plug-ins to ensure that they are wired correctly and grounded properly for your protection. It is a small handheld device that has prongs that fit into the electric plug-in. When inserted lights come on to tell you if the plug-in is wired correctly. All plug-ins in bathrooms should have GFCIs installed because of the proxcimity of water. GFCIs are there to protect you against electrocution! All bathrooms should have up to date plug-ins for use of hair dryers, hair curling machines, electric toothbrushes... No electric switches or plug-ins should be with in 3 feet of the bathtub or shower for your protection. NOTE: electrical is covered in more detail in the electrical section.

4. Test the heat to make sure it works. Turn up the thermostat and if it is electric baseboard feel the register. It should be warm to the touch in 20 seconds. Check that the heating fins are straight, clean, cover is on and the register is attached securely to the wall. If there is forced air heating put your hand over the floor register to feel for air flow and heat. NOTE: more on heat is covered in the heating section.

5. Next check the faucet and basin for damage or looseness. Put the plug in the basin and turn the faucet on checking water pressure, hot and cold. Look under the basin and check for water leakage and have a look to make sure the trap is in good shape. Now turn off the faucets and unplug the basin while watching under the trap area for water leaks. NOTE: Only check emergency water shut off taps when a plumber may have been called for other reasons. Many shut off taps will have water leakage problems from their lack of use and will need immediate attention.

6. While at the basin check that the countertop splashboard and caulking along the top of it is in good conditon. Check that the mirror is secure and has no damage.

7. Next check the toilet. Put all your weight on the floor around the toilet to check for soft spots from possible water leakage. Next put your knees on either side of the toilet and test that it is secured tightly to the floor. Lift the toilet lid and flush the toilet checking for a good flush and that water is not continously running.

8. Next check all around the bathtub and bathtub enclosure for soft drywall and that the caulking is in good shape. Check that the enclosure is in good shape. If tiled check that no tiles are loose and the grout is in good shape. Check especially close around windows. Now put the plug in the bathtub and turn on the water checking faucets for damage, water pressure, hot and cold. Let it run for a bit and then check to see how well it drains. Then turn on the shower to check it for pressure and the diverter is working. Check the enclosure door works and keeps water in.

9. Check floors, walls and ceiling for defects or damage.

Helpful Inspection Tips

1. Water damage is most common below bathroom windows, toilets, fixtures and plumbing.

2. MOST LEAKS occur at penetrations(soap dishes), change of direction of material and change of material.

3. Just above the bathtub along the joint where the walls of the bathtub enclosure meet are common spots for leaks.

4. Make sure shower door opens out.

5. Test basin/tub/shower/toilet for water flow and pressure by operating at the same time.

6. Check for shower pressure it is extremely important when other fixtures are running!

7.. When testing bathroom plumbing empty tub and basin at same time to check for siphoning/gurgling noise as the last of the water leaves the fixtures. If noise is heard this will suggest venting problems.

8.. When operating the whirlpool test the GFCI for the whirlpool to make sure the pump stops.

9. Check ceilings below bathrooms after testing for water stains.

10. With bathroom exhaust fan working put hand over exterior exit point of vent to make sure there is adequate air pressure blowing/exhausting. Also throw a few pieces of toilet tissue up against the fan cover when turned on to see if there is enough air suction to hold them there.

Bathroom Whirlpool Bath

Whirlpool Bath

Checklist before operating a whirlpool bath.

1. Make sure water is 1" - 3" above jets when operating.

2. Make sure jets are open.

3. Check suction opening and pressure.

4. GFCI - make sure it stops pump when tested.

Whirlpool baths are very relaxing to bath in. Operated incorrectly and costly damage can be done. Operated unsafely and serious injury can occur.

Problem: Inoperative pump. Causes include there may be no electric power for the pump (ie. the GFCI may have tripped or may be defective), the pump motor may be burned out, the pump may be seized and/or there may be a control problem. The whirlpool function of the tub is defeated.

Problem: Excess pump noise/vibration. Excess noise or vibration may be caused by bad bearings, foreign material in the pump, cavitating pump because of air on the suction side and/or a pump that is not well secured. The implications may be premature pump failure or leakage.

Problem: No pump access. This is an installation issue. Damage to interior finishes may result when pump service is required.

Problem: Jets inoperative or immovable. The jets may be seized as a result of deterioration or foreign material. People won't be able to set up the whirlpool effect the way they want. If the jets won't deliver water damage may be done to the pump.

Problem: Dirty water from jets. The pipes on the circulation system may be dirty. This is particularly likely if the tub has been idle for some time. The system may not be sanitary.

Problem: Odor. An odor may be caused by dirt and bacterial growth in the circulation system. This is a health concern.

Problem: Suction cover missing. Hair and other things may be drawn into the circulation system. The implication is foreign materials entering the pump and possible drowning.

Problem: Surface defects. These may be the result of an impact, dripping faucets with copper or steel supply piping, harsh chemicals in the tub, sometimes the water from wells will stain and/or abrasive cleaners used on delicate materials such as acrylics. In many cases these are simply cosmetic defects. Where cracks appear mold growth is a problem.

Problem: No Ground Fault Circuit Breaker. All whirlpool tubs should have a dedicated electric circuit protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A missing GFCI is an installation issue.

Problem: Electrical switch or receptacles too close to tub. If the switches are electric they should be 3 feet or more from the tub. Receptacles should similarly be at least 3 feet from the tub. This is an installation issue. Electrocution is the risk here.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can occur at the tub itself, the pump, supply drain or circulating piping, connections at any of these, anti-siphon devices, the overflow and/or spills and splashing around the outside of the tub. These can be installation, maintenance or operation issues. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold and mildew. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Exhaust Fan

Every bathroom MUST have an exhaust fan. Excess moisture in a home will destroy the finishes and possibly do damage to the structure. Excess moisture will foster mold and/or bacterial growth to cause an unhealthy environment. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so when the bathroom temperature cools off the moisture in the air will end up on ceilings, walls and floors. Have you noticed all the moisture on a mirror after a hot bath or shower? That is because the mirror is a cool surface and the air here cannot hold as much moisture. But the worst senerio is when the moist air cools inbetween walls or if the warm air escapes into the attic where it then cools leaving the moisture behind on surfaces and unable to dry. This is the perfect conditions for rot to start working at the structure of the home.

Sometimes you will hear people say "you don't need an exhaust fan in the bathroom it has a window" you can just open it when you have a bath or shower. Right how many people do you know open the window when the outside temperature is at zero? Exactly zero!

The best exhaust fan is operated by a humidity control. The most comfortable setting is between 35 and 40% humidity. Set too low and it feels so dry that some people may get nose bleeds. Set too high and the air is not clear enough to breath comfortably. Each home depending on how many occupants and water usage will dictate the humidity setting. Many fans are never used because they make to much noise and so may be disconnected. Fans are judged by scones(amount of noise). A 1 scone is the quietest while a 3 scone may be the loudest. The better the scone the more the fan costs. Fans are sized for the square footage of the room they are to be installed in. I always say get an exhaust fan that is 50% larger than needed.

Always make sure that your exhaust fan exhausts outside, many just end in the attic. The exhausted moisture will condense with the cool air in the attic and cause major attic problems. The exhaust fan venting pipe/tubing should not have more than 2 bends. It should be as short in length as possible. The reason for this is because the moisture in the air being exhausted is heavy and without a very strong force the moist air will not make it to the end of the vent pipe. Exhaust fans have enough pressure to handle about two 90 degree bends and about 10 feet in length of pipe. This is the reason to size the fan you need a little bigger. The vent pipe should also be insulated on its exterior to prevent cool air contacting the vent pipe causing moisture to condense inside the vent pipe walls before it is exhausted outside the home. Make sure the vent has a proper closing exterior door so as not to allow bugs in or birds to enter the vent pipe and build nests.

Problem: Inadequate air movement. Inadequate air movement may be the result of obstructed, crimped or crushed duct work, obstructed exhaust hood, dirty fan blades and/or obstructed intake grille on the fan cover. Moist air is not being exhausted outside.

Problem: Fan cover missing. The fan and duct work are likely to get dirty faster with the cover missing. The fan blades and wiring are exposed and may be touched inadvertently.

Problem: Inoperative. Exhaust fans may be inoperative because of an electric problem or because the fan or motor is seized. If the fan is inoperative, it won't help reduce house humidity.

Problem: Missing. Moist air is not being exhausted outside. All bathrooms must have exhaust fans to get rid of moisture and unpleasant odors.

Bathroom Shower Stalls

SHOWER STALLS

The safety issue with shower stalls is when the door is installed opening in. If a person should pass out against the door it will be very difficult to get the door open. Also the person may suffer further injury if the water is hot and still turned on. Shower stalls can be one piece or they can be made from scratch. Most shower stalls are installed at back door bathrooms for ease of cleaning up. The weak point in most shower stalls is the joint between the floor and walls of the stall. Water leaks are common in this area

Problem: Caulking around the enclosure is old or missing and needs to be removed and new caulking applied to stop water from entering and causing water damage to floor and wall systems.

Problem: Entrance problems. The shower stall entrance width should be a minimum of 22 inches. Shower doors should be tempered glass. Shower doors should open outwards. If the water temperature suddenly gets very hot, people can't get out of the shower quickly. A bigger problem is if someone collapses in a shower stall and falls against the door, it can be very difficult to get the person out. This is an installation and safety issue.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold and mildew. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can be through faucets, soap dishes, grab bars and/or windows. As well as changes in direction or material like shower base-tile intersections, inside wall corners and/or outside wall corners where the tile ends. Leakage may result from poor grout work, poor sealing of joints, lack of maintenance and/or building settlement. Leaks are possible through the supply and drain piping as well. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Rust. Moisture is the obvious cause of rust. Although the metal is usually protected by paint or another surfacing material, flaws inevitably occur or unfinished areas at joints are exposed to moisture. It's tough to keep a rusty shower stall sanitary. Eventually the rust will go through the metal and the shower stall will lose its integrity.

Problem: Sills and thresholds at shower stalls should be watertight and should be tall enough to control the shower water. Poor original construction or maintenance can lead to leakage at and around sills and thresholds. Sills and thresholds that are too low are an installation issue. In both cases leakage is the implication.

Bathroom Bathtub and Bathtub Enclosure Problems

BATHTUB

For some reason bathtubs give a house ambiance. A house without a bathtub feels like there is something missing. Bathtubs come in all shapes and sizes. If a bathtub is installed tight to a wall it must caulked along the wall and floor. This caulking should be monitored for integrity all the time. Bathtubs can be re-covered to look like new well still in place. Change color, new fixtures and what a face lift.

Problem: Surface defects. These may be a manufacturing defect, the result of an impact, dripping faucets with copper or steel supply piping, harsh chemicals used in the bathtub, sometimes the water from wells will stain and/or abrasive cleaners used on delicate materials such as acrylics. In many cases these are simply cosmetic defects. Where enamel is chipped away from stainless steel, rusting is the longer term implication. Where cracks appear in the surface, leakage through the crack may become a serious problem. Mold growth in the cracks is a health issue.

Problem: Drain plug inoperative or missing. You will not be able to have a bath.

Problem: Leaks. Leak around bathtubs are related to the drain connection and/or the overflow. Leaks at drain and overflow connections can be the result of pipe strain caused by settlement or mechanical damage. The leaks may cause water damage.

Problem: Slow drain. Slow drains are usually from clogs.

BATHTUB ENCLOSURE

The most important item in the bathroom is the bathtub enclosure. Not installed or maintained properly and it will cost you, how much is the question. If the water has leaked for a long time and never been able to dry out, the floor and wall framing my be rotten. If the wall framing needs to be replaced and it is on an interior wall then only drywall will likely need to be replaced in the other room. Then taping the joints, mudding and sanding twice, painting and finish trim. Hope there is no electrical wires going through this wall. Also hope there is no cabinets on the other side of the wall. If the wall framing needs to be replaced on an outside wall the siding will need to be reinstalled and painted. Hope it is not high in the air or you will also need scaffolding.

In both cases the bathtub has to be removed and plumbing disconnected. Now replace the plywood flooring(hope no joist are rotten), wall framing, insulation and vapor barrier if on an outside wall, hook up plumbing and reinstall bathtub, drywall, install new bathtub enclosure or if it is tiled there is considerably more work involved, install finished flooring in the bathroom, finish trim, paint, then caulk around the complete enclosure and bathtub. Caulking around a bathtub and enclosure MUST be regularly monitored and maintained. Windows in bathtub enclosures are extremely vulnerable to water leakage.

Problem: Caulking. Caulking around the bathtub enclosure is old or missing and needs to be removed. Then new caulking applied to stop water from entering and causing water damage to floor and wall systems.

Problem: Electrical problems at the enclosure. Where lighting fixtures are provided inside tub and shower enclosures, there should be a vapor proof fixture designed for this application. Electric light switches and receptacles should be at least 3 feet away (out of the reach of) shower stalls and bathtub enclosures. These problems are installation issues. They are also life safety issues.

Problem: Inappropriate finishes in wet areas. Absorbent finishes will draw moisture in and are likely to stain or deteriorate. Wood is a good example of this. Plaster or drywall in wet areas will crumble and disintegrate. Textured finishes hold water and foster growth of mold. Areas around bathtubs and showers should have smooth, hard, non-absorbent finishes to a height of a least six feet above floor level. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can be through faucets, soap dishes, grab bars and/or windows. As well as changes and/or direction in material like tub-tile intersections, inside wall corners and/or outside wall corners where the tile ends. Leakage may result from poor grout work, poor sealing of joints, lack of maintenance and/or building settlement. The implications of leakage are cosmetic damage to interior finishes below and structural damage to wood members exposed to the moisture.

Problem: Sometimes tiles are broken, cracked or missing. More often the tiles are loose because of failed grout and/or adhesive and/or failed backer material. The tiles will not be watertight if they are not secure. If the backer material starts to deteriorate tiles will eventually fall off the wall. The more immediate concern is that water will get in behind the backer material and attack the wall and floor systems behind and below. Considerable water damage can be done to the structure.

To check for moisture behind your floor or wall covering use a moisture meter. The meter has different settings depending on the depth of material needed to penetrate. The meter will give you a loud beeping noise to tell you if it detects moisture. These meters can be rented at a equipment rental store. The rental people will be more than happy to explain how to use the meter.

Bathroom Toilet and Bidet Problems

TOILETS

Have you ever flushed a toilet after using it and instead of emptying it just keeps filling up and then starts overflowing? I'll venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. Have you ever drank to much and then find yourself kneeling in front of the toilet. I venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. Have you ever been sick and stuff just wants to come out of both ends while running to the toilet. I venture to say that the first words out of your mouth were OH MY GOD. The toilet appears to be a place of great reverence and maybe that's why it is referred to as the throne.

Problem: Damage. Broken tank lid or seat. The toilet may not be usable if the seat is missing or broken. Missing or broken tank lids may allow foreign materials into the tank.

Problem: Floor damage suspected. Floor damage is usually the result of leakage around and below the toilet. Damage to the subflooring, structure and finishes below are the implications.

Problem: Inoperative. This is usually a mechanical disconnection inside the tank. The toilet won't work if you can't initiate a flush.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may be caused by cracks in the tank or bowl, poor connections, corrosion or splitting of the supply pipe. A defective wax ring or gasket at the toilet/floor intersection, a toilet not well secured to the floor, poor connection between the tank and bowl, a failed gasket at the tank/bowl connection and/or a dislodged bowl refill tube. Toilet leaks can cause water damage and waste water.

Problem: Loose. The causes of a loose toilet include the toilet may not have been well secured initially, the support bolts corroded and/or the floor system to which the toilet flange is secured may have problems. The implications of a loose toilet are leaks, particularly at the wax ring and at the supply piping connection.

Problem: Obstructed. Toilets may be clogged because of solids that were intended to be put down the toilet and/or objects that were not intended to go into a toilet. The toilet won't work and you run the risk of flooding the bathroom if the toilet is obstructed.

Problem: Odor. An odor around a toilet usually indicates leakage of the wax ring or gasket where the toilet connects to the waste piping. There are health implications and damage possibilities to finishes and structural members around and below the toilet.

Problem: Water is running continuously. Toilets may run continuously because of a problem with a fill valve or a flush valve. The implications of a running toilet are wasted water, sweating (condensation) and/or nuisance noise.

Problem: Shut off valve is missing. All toilets should have a shutoff valve located adjacent to the toilet. The toilet can't be shutoff in an emergency.

BIDET

In many parts of the world bidets are a standard item in a bathroom but for some reason you seldom see them in North America. They seem to be installed in very expensive homes only.

Problem: Floor damage suspected. Floor damage is usually the result of leakage around and below the bidet. Damage to the subflooring, structure and finishes below are the implications.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks can result from failures in supply piping or connections, failures in drain piping or connections, leaks at the vacuum breaker, leaks in the bowl of the fixture itself and/or leaks in the gasket where the bidet sits on the floor and connects to the drain system. Bidet leaks can cause water damage and waste water.

Problem: Loose. Bidets may be loose because of poor original installation, bolts rusting, floor deterioration and/or bolts working loose. The implications of a loose bidet are leaks at supply and drain connections.

Problem: Shut off valve is missing. All bidets should have a shutoff valve located adjacent to the bidet. The bidet can't be shutoff in an emergency.

Problem: Spray/rim wash diverter inoperative. This could be a defective or worn diverter. It could also be an improperly installed diverter. The unit cannot be used as intended if the diverter doesn't work.

Bathroom Basin and Trap Problems

BASINS

Not all of us wash so perfectly that all the water ends up in the basin. This being the case the countertop the basin sits on should have a splashboard along the wall. It should be caulked along the top of the splashboard and around the basin if it is not a tight fit.

Problem: Surface defects. Some may only be unpleasant to look at but some defects like chips may collect bacteria and become a health concern.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may be the result of defective faucets or faucet connections, cracks in bowls, poor drain connections or leaking drainage pipes, poor trap connections, cleanouts or split traps, poor connections at pop-up drain stoppers and/or rusting through of welded overflows on enameled steel basins. The implication of leaks is primarily water damage.

Problem: Loose. Loose fixtures may be the result of poor installation, vibration over time and/or physical abuse (children hoisting themselves up onto sinks, for example). Loose fixtures are likely to strain supply and drain pipes. Leakage is a likely implication.

Problem: Slow drain. Slow drains may be caused by pop-up drain stoppers that don't pop up high enough, obstructions in the strainer, tailpiece, trap, trap arm or elsewhere in the drain system. Undersized trap drain piping, improper drain slope, ineffective venting and/or frozen pipes. Slow drains will generally get worst/slower and eventually become plugged from improper design or installation.

TRAPS

Traps are taken for granted and never really noticed till your sink does not drain. Most of the time when a basin does not drain the trap is clogged with hair that has got caught on the drain stopper. True appreciation of a trap comes when you drop a piece of jewellery in the basin and it disappears. Traps are designed to be taken off and replaced easily and quickly. Just put a pail under the trap and unscrew(counter clockwise no tools needed) by hand the two large hand tightened nuts. Drop everything in the pail. Clean the trap, then install it back the way it was by just hand tightening the large locking nuts. Traps are designed to stop smell from the sewer coming back into the house so after re-installing the trap run water till you feel comfortable the trap is full and draining properly again.

Problem: Clogged. Traps may clog because the trap is a poor type, shape or size, double trapping, the tail piece is too long and/or foreign material is stuck in the trap. The fixture will not drain, at least not at its normal speed.

Problem: Double trapping. The speed at which the waste moves through the trap is important. If we have double trapping, the velocity coming into the second trap will be reduced and solids are more likely to collect and clog the second trap. The implication of double trapping is clogging of the trap. This is an installation issue.

Problem: Leaks. Leaks may occur because the trap is rusted or worn through, the connections are not water tight, the trap has been mechanically damaged or frozen and split and/or the trap has been unsuccessfully repaired. Waste leaking into the home is a health issue and a water damage issue.

Problem: Improper material. Traps shape is critical and so are smooth inside walls. Homemade traps or traps made from different materials than those that are approved, are usually not successful. Their depth of seal may be appropriate, but they won't maintain the proper velocity and self scouring effect. This is an installation issue. The trap is not likely to perform well and is more likely to clog or siphon.

Problem: Missing. Every fixture should be provided with a trap, except for a toilet. This is an installation issue. An unhealthy environment in the house will result if sewer gases find their way into the home.