Window and Skylight Problems

Windows/Skylights/Solarium's

Determining the condition of insulated glass windows is not always possible due to temperature, weather and lighting conditions. Condensation on windows is a sign the home is telling you that the humidity is to high. Condensation is caused by inefficient exhaust fans in the kitchens and bathrooms, curtains closed, poor air movement and poor air exchange. The paint will peel and bubble on walls and ceilings if high humidity is not addressed. About one third of the air in a home should be exchanged every hour to eliminate gassing from the glues in counters, cabinets, carpets, paint, odors... It is recommended that trim be installed on all windows and doors to stop warm moist air going into the building structure where it will condense against the cold exterior walls. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so that when the air touches a cold surface it can not hold as much moisture any more and so condensation forms on the cooler surface that the warm air touches. Many windows have mold growing on the sills from stagnant cold air pockets behind closed curtains. Mold will not grow without moisture unfortunately people like the humidity at about 35%, any less and the air is too dry for comfort, any more and the air is too moist for the building structure. So exchanging and exhausting the moist air in our homes is very important for us and our homes.

A lot of people believe shutting a room door will save on having to heat that room, to some extent that is true. But when the warm air from the rest of the house moves through openings that are not air tight(like under doors) moisture in the warm air will condense because the cooler air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air. This is especially noticeable on windows. The best window for the cost is a double pane window because it has an insulating space between the two panes of glass. The best frame for a window is plastic because it does not hold the cold as well as metal and wood. There is a popular myth that upgrading windows will save you money but the cost savings will take many years to recover. The most efficient way to save money is to weather seal around the windows with foam and caulk.

Skylights come in all shapes and sizes. They are generally located where more light is desired into the home. 99% of skylight problems are installation issues. They are installed on the roof where the home is most vulnerable to water leakage. The higher the step(4 to 8 inches) off the surface of the roof (depends on the slope) the less chance of leaves and debris building up on the top edge of the skylight giving moisture a chance to creep in over the top step edge. The lower the slope the higher the step should be. It is vitally important to understand how to flash a skylight. The bottom flashing is installed first, then the step flashing's up the sides inter-weaving between the shingles and then the top flashing pan last. I am always amazed when checking skylights for security(screwed or nailed to the step box) at how many of them are not attached at all. In the attic, skylight wells need to insulated as good as any wall in the house. This is a very common place for poor insulation installing. The insulation is always falling off.

Solarium's are a complete room made from windows. They are notorious for leaking. Absolutely make sure if you get one installed that it is installed by a company that will be around many years from now to service, if needed, their warranty. Absolutely get 3 job referrals that you can phone/visit to check the quality of the installing companies workmanship. Never settle for a home made solarium, you are guaranteed grief!

Problem: Glass cracked. Cracked glass may be caused by mechanical damage or building settlement. Implications are water and air leakage and possibly injuring someone. Loosing heat or conditioned air through the crack is a cost concern.

Problem: Condensation. Condensation is caused from to high humidity, poor air movement, inefficient exhaust fans and poor air exchange. Ice can form in cold temperatures on the window panes itself. If not corrected moisture damage to the area around the window is the implication. Mold will grow if not corrected causing a health concern.

Problem: Condensation between panes. Condensation between panes on sealed multi-glazed windows indicates a failed seal. Condensation will typically only show up when there is a big temperature difference between indoors and outside.

Problem: Water leaks. Water leakage may result in damage to windows and wall assemblies below as well as interior finishes and may result in concealed rot damage.

Problem: Lintel sagging or missing. If the lintel is missing or ineffective you will see a sag across the top of the window or window group. Windows may be difficult to operate and glass may crack. Missing or undersized lintels are an installation issue.

Problem: Window does not open. There will be no ventilation with a window that does not

open.

Problem: Not locking. If the locking hardware is missing or not working security is compromised.

Problem: Screens may be missing or torn. Screens are designed to keep insects and pests out of the home.

Problem: Trim problems. Loose or missing trim can allow air leakage into building components which may result in condensation damage.

Problem: Caulking around window frames. Caulking may be missing, loose and/or deteriorated (cracked, shrunk, dried out). Moisture may get into the building structure and cause water damage. Caulking may have failed as result of using the wrong caulk for the job, caulking dirty surfaces and/or caulking during adverse weather. Caulking is a maintenance issue ensuring the water/air tightness of the building.

Problem: Damage. Implications are water/air leakage, possibly injuring someone.

Problem: No drip cap. Drip cap flashing's are installed behind the siding and over the windows to keep water from above getting into the structure from around the window. The implications are water entry into and damage to the wall system.

Problem: Paint stain. Most wood products need regular paint/stain. Paint helps to protect against rotting and deterioration as a result of ultraviolet light. Paint also provides some mechanical protection against water passing over wood. The implication of missing or failed paint/stain is deterioration of the wood.

Problem: Putty (glazing compound) problems. Putty is used to secure windows in sashes or mutins. Failed putty can result in air and water leakage through the window system.

Problem: Rot. Rot may be the result of horizontal surfaces or other configurations that collect water. Failure to maintain paint, stain, caulking or glazing compound (putty). The longer it takes for the water to leave, the more likely rot is to develop. Good design and maintenance allows water to drain away quickly. The implications include water and air leakage.

Problem: Rust. Rust may eventually eat through the metal causing it to lose its integrity.

Problem: Deteriorated sill. Window sills deteriorate primarily because of exposure to sun and water.

Problem: Sill slope. Poor sill slope may be a result of original installation and/or building frame shrinkage. Good sills have a pronounced slope down away from the window. Good sills also include a projection out from the wall so that water running off the sill does not soak the wall below. Another good detail on window sills is a groove cut in the underside of the sill, roughly an inch in from the face of sill but well away from the wall. This groove runs along the length of the sill parallel to the wall. This creates a capillary break that stops water from running along the underside of the sill back to the wall because of surface tension. Where this groove is missing, a bead of caulking can be run along the underside of the windowsill where the capillary break would be located. An improper sill slope will hold water which can cause rot over time and possibly damage the integrity to the window frame.

Window Wells

Problem: Damaged. Damaged wells result from deterioration of the wall materials and/or soil pressure, often associated with freeze/thaw problems. Window wells are little retaining walls. Where these small retaining walls have moved or suffered damage improvements will be needed.

Problem: Missing. Where basement windows are less than six to eight inches above grade level, wells should be provided. The window wells may be missing because the finished grade ended up higher than intended. Missing wells create wood/soil contact and may create water problems in the foundation or basement. Metal windows and frames may rust. Wood components may rot.

Problem: Not deep enough. Window wells are constructed to protect the below grade window. If the well is not deep enough it will not do its intended job.

Problem: Drain problems. Drains may be missing, not connected, broken and/or obstructed. Water entry into the basement may result. Window frames may rust or rot. Well walls may suffer freeze/thaw damage. Outside drains need constant monitoring. The implications for a drain not working is flooding.

Problem: Wood/soil contact. Wood/soil contact can occur if window wells are missing or if the floor of the window well is too high. It may also allow water into the basement. Wood will rot when left in contact with soil over time.

Window Inspection and Maintenance Tips

1. On the outside of all windows(except wood) you will notice holes at the bottom of the frame. These are drain holes and should be kept clean at all times for proper water drainage. Make sure they are located at the bottom and on the outside. If they are not the window was not installed correctly.

2. Make sure around the edges of the window are caulked tightly if not remove old caulking and apply new exterior caulk. If color match up is a problem use clear. To give a smooth finish to the caulk wet your finger before smoothing it. If the gap is big use a spray Styrofoam to fill it first. This foam comes in a small can available at any hardware store. It is extremely dangerous material so follow safety instructions when using it.

3. Above all windows there should be a drip cap flashing to help direct water away from getting in behind the siding. There is a 1 to 4 rule in construction for window flashing. For example if the window is within 6 inches of a 2 foot roof overhang(soffit) the window does not need a top flashing.

4. There is an easy method for checking for air leakage around windows. You must be sure the outside temperature is different than the inside temperature. The tool is called a infrared temperature gun. When the infrared light is pointed at a surface there is a digital temperature read out at the back of the gun for easy viewing. Point the infrared light all around the edge of the window frame and with very little practise you will be able to tell which windows are leaking warm or cool air. The windows edges that are not leaking air will have the same surface temperature as the siding.